Uniquely Dozier's Hatmaking Classes

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What are the types of buckram?

One-ply buckram is a woven cotton fabric that is sized according to the end use. It is sold by the yard in 60" or 30" widths. There are several weights of one-ply buckram - light, medium, and heavy. It is used to make foundation hat frames for fabric hats. One-ply buckram is used for pattern and blocking of fabric hats but can also act as a support in blocked straw or felt hats.
One-ply heavy buckram can be made stiffer by steam ironing two layers together. Because of the heavy sizing they tend to stick together; however, it is best to baste them together to insure they don't move. If blocking, just dampen and put double layers over the block shape. CAUTION: Remember to use a non-stick aluminum foil for first covering the block when using buckrams. As it tends to stick to the inside of the shape otherwise.

To remove from block, slip a corset stay or other strong, flat, flexible object such as a butter knife, under the buckram and against the block to loosen. Be careful not to stretch or misshape the blocked buckram.

One-ply heavy - Use for blocking or flat pattern hats that require a sturdy frame foundation. This is a coarse weave cotton, heavily sized, resembling needlework template. Thread count is 17/20 per inch.

One-ply medium – Use for blocking or flat pattern hat making. It is a fine weave sized cotton and the thread count is 26/30 per inch.

One-ply light - This is a finer weave sized cotton and the thread count is 48/50 per inch. It is often used as a foundation for ribbon and trim work.

One-ply crinoline is used as a foundation for ribbon and trim work or crown construction for very light weight hats. The thread count is 40 per inch. It is a gauzy-look weave of lightly sized cotton and is 39-inches wide. It also is useful for pattern draping when working out a design.

Two-ply buckram (crown buckram) is a heavily-sized cotton fabric in which a plain weave cotton fabric is attached to a finer plain weave cotton fabric. It is used for making very stiff foundation hat frames and costumes for the theatre. Normally the finer buckram is used on the inside of the hat frame. Crown buckram is sold by the yard, normally 40" wide, and is widely used for costumes and bonnet making.

Written by: JudithM

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Uniquely Dozier's Hatmaking Classes * 6417 Symmes Lane * Huber Heights, OH * US * 45424